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HomeLifestyleJournalWhy the Spalla Camicia Has Become a Status Symbol in the Tailoring World

Why the Spalla Camicia Has Become a Status Symbol in the Tailoring World

June 29 2017 | Sterling

tags • fashion, Mr.Derk, Shoulder, Spalla Camicia, Structure, style, suit

The Spalla Camicia, when done right, is sown by hand, which creates a dimpled effect in the shoulder and allows the fabric to flex. It is, by many in the tailoring world, regarded as a status symbol.

Choosing the right suit is not a pick-and-go-in-fifteen-minutes kind of task. It can be, but will it look as sharp? As head-turning? As eye-catching?

Going suit shopping? Take advantage of Mr. Derk’s Sweet Summer Madness Sale to find the perfect shoulder style for you.

Structure

There are different details that go into the structure of a suit, and these details help your overall appearance. They help with your posture, proportions, and sense of personal style. A suit’s structure is like a man’s version of contouring: it helps chisel and highlight your best features.

Depending on your statura (“stature”), you should be choosing the shoulder type that’s right for you. You don’t want to have cassure, which is a breakage in the lapel (see below), due to your shoulders being too large for a jacket. This is visible when the jacket is fastened.

Suit Fit Shoulder Mr. Derk

Photo Credit: Little Trip Diary 

You will notice each shoulder style has a different grinze. This Italian term, a.k.a “shiring” by the Brits, refers to a ruffling of the shirt sleeve. Ruffles help create shape and allow the fabric to flex.

Shoulder Styles

Spalla Camicia

The Spalla Camicia (or “shirt sleeve”) is a status symbol in the world of tailoring. It’s the A-lister of shoulder styles. It features a distinct bunching within the shoulder seams of the jacket. This bunching is created by inserting a larger sleeve head into a smaller chest piece. This allows the wearer a great range of arm motion.

Proper construction of this style is only found on very high-end products or within Neapolitan bespoke. We accentuate proper because it can only be done by hand. Buyers should beware of purchasing lower priced suits boasting a spalla camicia style. 

Spalla Camicia Suit Mr. Derk Itlian Tailor

Spalla Camicia Shoulder Mr. Derk

Spalla Camicia Suit Mr. Derk

Suit: Ring Jacket / Shirt: Stenströms / Tie: Drake’s 

 

Neapolitan Shoulder

Neopolitan Suit Shoulder Mr. Derk

Photo Credit: Q James Bespoke

The Neapolitan Shoulder is unstructured and meant to look like a shirt sleeve. It has a natural appearance from having no padding, therefore, following the general lines of the wearer’s shoulders. This style is both comfortable and elegant, and looks great on less formal, more versatile jackets, such as sports coats and modernly styled suits. This style flatters people with naturally strong, broad shoulder stature.

Con Rollino

Con Rollino Suit Fit Mr. Derk

Photo Credit: Devan Vincent

Con Rollino is a variation of the Neapolitan Shoulder style that’s more narrow in appearance. Like the Spalla Camicia, the Con Rollino features a ruffled look to the shoulder. Con Rollino actually means “with roll”, referring to the most noticeable difference: the fabric slightly rises from the seam and falls into the sleeve, resulting in a sophisticated, rope-like appearance on the shoulder. This style is a great way to give the relaxed Neapolitan Shoulder a touch more formality.

Roman Shoulder

Roman Shoulder Suit Fit Mr. Derk Menswear

 Photo Credit: Jeff Banks Bespoke 

The Roman Shoulder is armour-inspired, and just like British tailoring, features more structure similar to a military uniform. The armhole is built much deeper than the Neapolitan Shoulder. This, in addition to a soft chest piece, allows for increased movement to the wearer. This heavily structured and padded type of shoulder style is not recommended on a large statured build.

Going suit shopping? Take advantage of Mr. Derk’s Sweet Summer Madness Sale to find the perfect shoulder style for you.

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