A field jacket built like a mechanic's, cut for the tailoring crowd. The Marfa is modelled on a 1950s station jacket, then ran it this season in Super 180s wool, a strange and good pairing: work jacket architecture in a cloth fine enough for a suit. We brought it in because it does something most outerwear on the floor does not, it layers over a knit or a shirt without ever reading like a shell.
Jake Mueser started the house out of a storefront on Christopher Street in Manhattan's West Village, after teaching himself to sew and alter garments by hand, and the shop still carries that mix: a soft Neapolitan shoulder with a downtown edge. The Marfa shows the same hand. A five button front, dual entry flap pockets at the waist, double elbow patches for wear, a pleated action back for movement, and an adjustable waistband with button tabs so it sits close without binding. Handmade in Italy, in a 100% wool Super 180s cloth, a fine worsted grade that holds a crease and drapes softer than the moleskin this style usually ships in.
Sized to layer, order your true chest size and expect more room through the body than a tailored blazer, since this one is cut to go over a roll neck or a knit polo, not just a shirt. Sizing runs on the jacket chest scale, the same numbers as our tailored suits and blazers, so a client already in one of ours should stay in that size here.
It is the jacket for the days a suit feels like too much and a barn coat feels like too little, worn over denim or over flannel. Once the weather turns, this is the piece we will point wardrobe-building clients toward.
"Made in Italy"