The easy one. An open-laced Derby opens wider than an Oxford, so it slips on without a fight and gives a higher instep somewhere comfortable to go, which is exactly why it's the shoe most guys actually reach for on a normal day. The dark brown calf leans naturally with grey and navy, takes a shine when you want one and looks just as right knocked back and casual. It's welted and built to last, and it sits at a price that makes it an easy first good pair or a hard-working second one. Wear it with suit trousers on a relaxed day and jeans on the weekend.