Military Green Michelangelo Old Enzyme Denim

This is the pair we hand to the man who says he does not wear jeans anymore. Five pockets, a proper mid-rise, and a leg that stays close through the thigh and opens just enough at the hem for a boot. The Michelangelo is the house regular slim block, and in this cloth it wears like a good chino.

The cloth is the GS365, a super-stretch cotton gabardine with a real five percent elastane, so the knee and seat recover after a day of sitting. Old Enzyme is the finish: an enzyme bath after sewing that softens the surface and lifts a touch of colour off the high points, so the green arrives already broken in.

Urbano Chemello started cutting jeans in Vicenza in 1967, and his four children run the factory in the Veneto denim district. The name is the red weft thread down a selvedge edge. The tell is in the details: a button plated the way jewellery is, a suede label at the back, and the patented option of your initials on the right rear pocket.

Sized in waist inches and true to the number. The stretch gives about a half size of daily give at the waist, so if you sit between two sizes, take the smaller one. It is washed at the factory, so there is no shrinkage to plan around. Wear it where a chino would go: under a tweed sport coat now, with a linen shirt in June.

“Made in Italy”